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Dougherty's Herring:
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Materials
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Hook: 6/0 2X
Heavy / 2X Short Mustad C68S SS or similar
Thread: White
Danville's Size A
Eyes: Mirage
3/8" Domed Easy Peel
Gill Plate: Epoxied markered Prismatic Silver Sili-Skin
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Body:
Layer 1 -
Rainbow Shimmer blended with Pearl Blue
Angel Hair
Layer 2 -
Rainbow Shimmer blended with Rainbow Polar
Flash
Layer 3 - Each
side, flair several strands of Lavender
Pearl Flashabou
Layer 4 - Yellow
Yak blended with Yellow Pearl Regular Shimmerflash
Layer 5 -
Mackerel Slinky Blend blended with Damsel
Blue Angel Hair
Layer 6 -
Several strands of Light Blue Flashabou
Mirage
Layer 7 - Royal
Blue Slinky Fibre tied sparse
Layer 8 - 1/3
Black Slinky Fibre blended with 2/3 Royal
Blue Slinky Fibre
Layer 9 - 1/32"
Blue Saltwater Holographic Flash
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Lateral Line:
Each side, 2 strands of Blue Pearl Wide Shimmerflash or similar
Marker: Prismacolor Navy Blue over Grey over Light
Blue, Black for detailed lines
Adhesives:
Zap-A-Gap CA+ and Z-Poxy 5-Minute Epoxy
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Buy materials now
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Step-by-step tying
instructions
Print
instructions
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Materials can be
substituted or mixed; however, color scheme
and the concept of tying materials in ahead
of previous wraps remain constant.
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History
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Dougherty's
Herring was created in the spring of 2004.
It was designed with two purposes in mind.
The first was to design a realistic herring
fly. The second, to design a light fly
that fished well in and around the shallow
herring creeks of Martha's Vineyard.
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Much of the hook
is exposed, but this is by design. A
natural keel is formed when the material is
tied at a 45 degree angle to the hook.
This improves tracking through the water and
reduces line twist. Wide or narrow
profiles can be achieved by simply spreading
the materials more or less in Step 3.
Uses for this fly range from striper to
bluewater
fishing.
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Tying instructions
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STEP 1:
Hook
positioning. Angle the hook in the
vise at approximately a 45 degree angle.
The steep angle promotes tying one layer
over the next while allowing the bend and
point of the hook to act as a keel when
fished.
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STEP 2:
Layering.
Begin thread halfway down the shank and
attach Layer 1. Layer 2-9 will follow
so as to finish with Layer 9 being the top.
Layer 4, 5 and 6 will be the longest acting
as the tail (~ 8-9"). Layers 1, 2,3, 7
and 9 will be the next shortest (~ 5").
Finally, Layer 8 will be the shortest (~
4"). Tie each layer in ahead of the
previous layer's wraps.
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STEP 3:
Adhesives.
Once all layers are tied-in, whip-finish,
cut thread and glue with Zap-A-Gap.
Once dry, apply approximately a dime-sized
amount of epoxy to each side of the fly.
Slightly spread materials as epoxy sets
promoting a wide profile. Let dry.
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STEP 4:
Gill Plate.
Cut an appropriate shaped gill plate for
each side using Prismatic Silver Sili-Skin.
Attach gill plates covering previously
applied epoxy. Marker and epoxy entire
gill plate. when epoxy becomes tacky
apply an eye to each side. Once dry,
apply fine detail to the gill plates using a
black marker. The fly is finished, go
fish!
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